Pashmina Jewels: The Khanuja Family Collection of Kashmir Shawls

Emerging from the turbulent history of the Punjab, the Sikhs rose to great power, wielding sufficient influence to attract the attention of the mighty British Raj. This book analyses the historical convergence between the golden age of the Sikh Empire and the refinement of pashmina shawls, the production and trade of which experienced an unprecedented surge and sophistication during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh.

Drawing on pieces from Dr Parvinderjit Singh Khanuja’s collection, the book explores the mystical art and political significance of the Kashmiri pashmina wool shawl. Through an in-depth study of this exceptional private collection, it details the evolution of traditional motifs (the boteh) and the complex techniques of kani weaving, and highlights how this precious textile – a symbol of social status, devotion and haute couture – captivated the Sikh royal court before gaining favour amongst the European elite in the 19th century.